No more posts until the end of the month - I'll be on vacation.
The Kentucky Bend,
variously called the New Madrid Bend, Madrid Bend
or Bessie Bend, is an exclave of Fulton County , Kentucky , the most-western county of Kentucky .
The county seat is called Hickman.
Kentucky Bend is a piece
of land on the inside of an oxbow loop meander of the Mississippi
River . Surrounded by the states of Tennessee
and Missouri without touching any part of Kentucky , it is an exclave of Kentucky .
Kentucky Bend is the
extreme southwestern corner of Kentucky .
The peninsula includes the lowest point in the state of Kentucky ,
at the banks of the Mississippi River . The
only highway into the area is Tennessee State Route 22, whose continuation into
Kentucky Bend at one time was signed as Kentucky State Route 313.
As of the 2010 census, the
population was 18 persons in this area, tabulated as the "Kentucky Bend
County Census Division". The mailing address of the area is Tiptonville,
Tennessee, which lies to its south, although the nearest population center (and
post office) is in the closer city of New Madrid, Missouri, across the river,
to its north.
According to the U.S.
Census Bureau, the Kentucky Bend covers a land area of 26.9 square miles (69.6
km2), of which 17.5 square miles (45.2 km2) is land and 9.4 square miles (24.4
km2), or 35.08%, is water. The water area is primarily within the Mississippi
River. Surveyors marking the boundary between Kentucky
and Tennessee had only estimated where their
line would meet the Mississippi ;
later, more detailed surveys revealed the location of this line to pass through
north-south bends in the river, creating a division of the peninsula. The
western border of Kentucky is designated as the Mississippi River, as is the
eastern border of Missouri—thus the creation of a "notch" for
Kentucky, but not for Tennessee.
The border predates the
separation of Kentucky from Virginia
and Tennessee from North Carolina . Its location stems from the
Royal Colonial Boundary of 1665, which was meant to delimit overlapping inland
claims of the Colony of Virginia and the Province of Carolina ,
respectively.
In 1812, this area of the
river was highly disrupted and was reported to even flow backwards because of
the 1811–1812 New Madrid series of earthquakes, some of the largest ever felt
in the United States .
The state of Tennessee contested the inclusion of the Kentucky Bend in
the state of Kentucky , claiming it as part of Obion County
until at least 1848, but Tennessee
eventually dropped its claim.
This area of the
Mississippi River, from just east at "Island Number Ten" around to
the town of New Madrid , Missouri , was the site of a Civil War battle
from February 28 to April 8, 1862, the Battle of Island Number Ten.
Due to its highly
productive soil in the river's floodplain, Kentucky Bend was developed as a
major cotton-producing area. The 1870 census found more than 300 residents. In
The West Tennessee Farm edited by Marvin Downing (University of Tennessee at
Martin Press, 1979), Norman L. Parks reports that in 1880 there was a
population of 303, of whom 18 were African American. By 1900, there were
"large numbers of Negroes in the Bend "
working as laborers to plant and harvest the cotton.
In Mark Twain's book Life on the
Mississippi, he
described the six-decade-long feud between the Darnell and Watson families and
other elements of life in
the Bend .
Living
'round the bend
With a bloody feud long over, folks are enjoying the quiet life inKentucky .
With a bloody feud long over, folks are enjoying the quiet life in
By JIM SUHR of The Associated Press
Published Sunday, August 4, 2002
KENTUCKY
BEND, Ky. — As the sun sets over her farmhouse and a mouse
scampers across the porch near her slippered feet, Daisy Wilson welcomes the
stranger who managed to find this desolate nub of land
between the curves of the Mississippi
River .
Visitors don’t often come around what locals call Kentucky Bend, aside from an occasional escaped
prison inmate, a drunkard or a hopelessly lost motorist. Most simply stumble
upon the tiny, teardrop-shaped crook on Tennessee
22, the only road in.
Her Kentucky
drawl dripping with Southern charm, Wilson
greets a visiting reporter like family, inviting him to sit and hear about life
on these 15,000 acres in deep southwest Kentucky
and the middle of nowhere, across
the Mississippi
from New Madrid.
The land is a notch, which fits like a
puzzle piece into a curve of Missouri
land carved out by the meandering Mississippi River .
It’s surrounded on three sides by water, with the opposing shore all Missouri . The fourth
side is Tennessee , leaving the bend cut off from the rest of the
Bluegrass State .
But Wilson
gets a bit riled when asked the question begged by the map: With the Bend
conjoined to Tennessee and pinched off from the rest of Kentucky , do you feel
Kentuckian? Tennessean? Confused?
“I’m a Kentuckian through and through,
very much so. And this is home,”’ says Wilson ,
70, clad in a striped robe.
Others call the geographic oddity
Madrid Bend, New Madrid Bend or Bessie Bend. One magazine lovingly dubbed it
“Bubbleland,” for its odd, river-wrapped shape.
Whatever the name, the Bend isn’t much besides a handful ofhouses, a graveyard, flat farmland,
a few small fishing lakes and pockets of deer and wild turkeys that run and
duck during hunting season.
The Bend used to have the nation’s largest
cottonwood tree “down yonder,” Wilson points out, but a lightning strike years
ago cut it to a stump. The few schoolchildren take a bus about 12 miles into
Tiptonville, the Tennessee
town that touts itself as Carl Perkins’ boyhood home. Voting machines are long
gone, requiring a 40-mile drive to Hickman ,
Ky. , to cast a ballot.
Residents needing emergency help,
groceries or other supplies often
get them from Tiptonville and Lake
County , Tenn. The Bend ’s mailing addresses
are rural Tiptonville. Wilson doesn’t have a
phone, and only four Bend dwellers have library
cards for use when Marda Pate makes her monthly 55-mile bookmobile trek from Fulton , Ky.
The only store here closed in the early
1960's. A church? Forget it. A gas station? Nope.
“But you’ve got your privacy here, your
quietness. There ain’t everybody stuffing their noses in your business,” Wilson
says about the land where she and her husband have spent 49 years, raised 10
children and farmed soybeans, cotton, wheat and corn.
“I wouldn’t live in the city; there’s
too much meanness, too much ungodliness.”
Just decades ago, she recalls, several
hundred occupied the flood-prone land. Today’s head count requires just a tally
on Wilson ’s
fingers.
“Fifteen.”
Local historians say English settlers
arrived here shortly after the Bend ’s creation
in the 1811-12 New Madrid earthquakes that shifted the Mississippi . Ferries shuttled residents to Missouri and back.
Helped by steamboats, the Bend ’s population grew from just two in 1820 to more than
300 in 1870, with corn and wheat acreage giving way to cotton in nearly all the
Bend ’s fields
by the 20th century. The Bend
even had a small gin, a couple of sawmills — and six decades of 1800's bloodshed between the Darnells
and Watsons, by some accounts over a horse or cow.
Mark Twain wrote about that, claiming
that “in no part of the South has the vendetta flourished
more briskly, or held out longer between warring families, than in this
particular region.”
“Every year or so, somebody was shot,
on one side or the other, and as fast as one generation was laid out, their
sons took up the feud and kept it a-going,” Twain’s “Life on the Mississippi”
quotes a man as saying. “And it’s just as I say; they went on shooting each
other, year in and year out — making a kind of religion of it,
you see — till they’d done forgot, long ago, what it was all about.
“The thing could have been fixed up,
easy enough, but no, that wouldn’t go. Rough words had been passed, and so,
nothing but blood could fix it up after that. That horse or cow, whichever it
was, cost 60 years of killing and crippling!”
Finally, the man said, the last of the
Darnells — an elderly father and his two sons — decided to leave the bloody Bend by steamboat. “But
the Watsons got wind of it,” showed up as the Darnells were
about to embark and opened fire, killing the brothers.
Old history, Wilson
might say. Bend
folk, she says, have lots ofother things to hang their hats on.
“This little ol’ Bend has decided several elections. You
wouldn’t think it,” says Wilson, a “full-blooded Republican” who’s registered
as a Democrat so she can vote more often.
“They say if you can carry the Bend ,
you have a higher chance of winning the election.”
Ed Whitfield hasn’t quite found it that
way. Into his fourth term as a Republican congressman for Kentucky ’s
First District spanning 33½ counties, he has never carried Fulton County .
When told of Wilson ’s
talk about the Bend ’s
supposed Election Day clout, the politician who has been to that area maybe
twice pledged with a smile: “After what you said, I’m going to spend more time
there.”
“Kentucky Bend is as important as any other
area,” he said. “But you have to make a special effort to get over there.”
So do inmates at the prison in
Tiptonville, where Wilson ’s
son Virgil works as a guard.
“Every time they break out,” Wilson says, “they head right down to this Bend . They think they can
make it, but the river’s always in the way.”
The river has claimed at least three of the
men. Another escapee stole her son’s car.
That’s about as exciting as it gets in
these parts, where the Wilson brood grew up playing in the sloughs, hunting,
fishing and working the fields.
“I loved being able to do whatever I
wanted, and no one said anything because there was nobody around,” says Virgil
Wilson, at 40 still living just a mile from his parents in Lake County, Tenn.,
where he was among four men on Thursday’s ballot for sheriff.
Daisy Wilson
yearns to see other parts of Kentucky
where “they tell me they’ve got a lot of mines and caves.”
“But I guess I’ll never get no further
than my back yard,” she says, arms crossed as she shakes her head. Nearby, a
clothesline holds towels, clothes and a rug. A swing dangles from a tree, near
a garden tiller covered by a metal washtub.
Her three dogs ramble nearby, one of them
being smacked by grandchildren.
“Kids, quit whoopin’ that dog,” Wilson snaps before more straight talk about the Bend .
“I don’t have much complaining about the Kentucky Bend,” she says.
“Farming, fishing and good people. That’s the Bend .”
Copyright 2002 Associated Press.